Buying Guides9 min readUpdated July 2026

The Luxury Watch Buying Guide

Several high-end luxury watches displayed on a dark surface with dramatic lighting

Buying a luxury watch is part passion, part investment and part minefield. The great houses each have their own value drivers, quirks and counterfeit risks — and the second-hand market rewards buyers who understand them.

This guide covers what drives value across the major brands, how to authenticate a piece, and how to complete a purchase safely using escrow.

What drives value

  • Reference and rarity — limited production and discontinued models
  • Condition — original, unpolished cases command a premium
  • Completeness — box, papers and service history ("full set")
  • Provenance — documented ownership and originality of parts

The major houses

Rolex

The benchmark for liquidity and value retention. Sports models like the Submariner, GMT-Master II and Daytona carry waitlists and strong resale — and the highest counterfeit volume, so authentication matters.

Patek Philippe

The connoisseur’s marque, from the Nautilus and Aquanaut to grand complications. Values are high and full sets with papers are essential to protect value.

Audemars Piguet

Defined by the Royal Oak. Demand far outstrips supply, driving both prices and the incentive to forge — verify integrated bracelets and dial finishing carefully.

Richard Mille

Extreme engineering at extreme prices. The values involved make independent authentication and escrow non-negotiable for private sales.

Authentication essentials

  • Match serial and reference numbers to the papers
  • Inspect movement, finishing and weight against the genuine reference
  • Verify the "full set" — box, papers, service records
  • Use an independent watchmaker for high-value pieces

Buying safely

However well you know the market, the payment is still the point of maximum risk in a private sale. Escrow holds your funds until the watch is delivered and authenticated, so expertise and protection work together.

Move your next deal into escrow.

Open a protected transaction and invite the other party in minutes. Funds are only released when both sides are satisfied.

Start a secure transaction

Frequently asked questions

Rarity, original condition, a complete "full set" with box and papers, and documented provenance. Discontinued and limited references from the top houses tend to hold value best.

Rolex sports models are the most liquid and value-stable, but any purchase is only as safe as its authentication and payment. Verify the piece and use escrow regardless of brand.

Authenticate the watch (ideally via an independent expert) and pay through escrow, so your funds are only released once the piece is delivered and confirmed genuine.